江本悠滋さんのインスタグラム写真 (江本悠滋Instagram)「セカンドのビレーにどんなデバイスを使われてますか？ ここ最近、使い方を from instagrammernews.com
Introduction
If you're an avid climber or belayer, you know how important it is to have the right equipment. One of the most essential tools in any climber's arsenal is a belay device. This small but powerful device is used to control the rope during a climb, and can be the difference between a successful ascent and a dangerous fall. In this article, we'll cover everything you need to know about using a belay device, from the basics to advanced techniques.
What is a Belay Device?
A belay device is a small piece of equipment that is used to control the rope during a climb. It is typically made of metal or plastic, and is designed to allow the rope to flow smoothly through it while providing friction to slow the rope down when necessary. There are two main types of belay devices: assisted braking devices and non-assisted braking devices.
Assisted Braking Devices
Assisted braking devices, also known as "auto-locking" devices, are designed to automatically lock the rope in place in the event of a fall. These devices are popular among climbers because they provide an extra level of safety and security. Some popular models of assisted braking devices include the Petzl GriGri and the Black Diamond ATC Pilot.
Non-Assisted Braking Devices
Non-assisted braking devices are designed to provide friction to the rope, but do not automatically lock in the event of a fall. These devices require the belayer to manually apply pressure to the rope to slow it down. Some popular models of non-assisted braking devices include the Black Diamond ATC and the Petzl Reverso.
How to Use a Belay Device
Using a belay device is relatively simple, but it's important to follow proper technique to ensure the safety of both the climber and the belayer. Here are the basic steps for using a belay device:
Step 1: Attach the Device to Your Harness
The first step in using a belay device is to attach it to your harness using a locking carabiner. Make sure the carabiner is properly locked and secured before proceeding.
Step 2: Thread the Rope Through the Device
Next, thread the rope through the belay device according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure the rope is properly seated and not twisted or tangled.
Step 3: Attach the Rope to the Climber's Harness
Once the rope is threaded through the device, attach it to the climber's harness using a locking carabiner. Make sure the carabiner is properly locked and secured before proceeding.
Step 4: Begin Belaying the Climber
With the rope properly attached to both the belayer and the climber, you're ready to begin belaying. Use the belay device to control the flow of the rope, taking care to apply pressure as necessary to slow the climber down or stop them in the event of a fall.
Belay Device Techniques
Once you've mastered the basics of using a belay device, there are a few advanced techniques you can try to improve your climbing skills. Here are a few to get you started:
1. The Munter Hitch
The Munter Hitch is a simple but effective technique that can be used in place of a belay device in a pinch. To use the Munter Hitch, simply tie a loop in the rope and twist it into a figure-eight shape. Then, thread the loop through the carabiner on your harness and use it to control the flow of the rope.
2. The Guide Mode
The Guide Mode is a technique that is often used when belaying a second climber from the top of a route. To use the Guide Mode, simply attach the belay device to an anchor point and thread the rope through it. Then, apply pressure to the rope as necessary to control the flow and speed of the second climber.
3. The Dynamic Belay
The Dynamic Belay is a technique that is used to provide a softer catch for the climber in the event of a fall. To use the Dynamic Belay, simply apply more pressure to the rope as the climber falls, then gradually release it as they slow down. This technique can help reduce the risk of injury in the event of a fall.
Conclusion
Using a belay device is an essential skill for any climber or belayer. By following proper technique and mastering advanced techniques, you can improve your climbing skills and ensure the safety of yourself and your climbing partners. So next time you hit the crag, make sure you have your belay device and the knowledge to use it effectively. Happy climbing!
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